Bocconi by Dario Cecchini

Dario Cecchini is the most famous butcher in Italy. His shop in Panzano in Chianti has been a pilgrimage site for chefs and food writers for decades; his philosophy — that an animal should be used in its entirety, with skill and reverence — has influenced a generation of European cooking. Bocconi at The Lana is his first international restaurant.

The format is deliberately simple: heritage-breed beef and pork from Cecchini's Tuscan suppliers, rotisserie-roasted or grilled over fire; seasonal vegetables prepared without complication; Tuscan bread, lard, and salt at the start; and Chianti Classico poured liberally throughout. No tasting courses — just what's on the fire that evening, brought to the table as it's ready.

In a city where restaurants compete on scale and spectacle, Bocconi does something harder: it makes a room full of people feel like guests at a private dinner.