Sur Mesure par Thierry Marx

Sur Mesure's all-white dining room is as precise as the food, Thierry Marx's tasting menus play with texture and temperature in ways that are hard to describe and easy to remember.

Marx trained in molecular technique early and has kept refining it rather than moving on, so expect liquid nitrogen theatrics used with real purpose rather than as spectacle: a bread course served warm from a hidden oven built into the table, a dessert that shifts texture as it is eaten. The room's curved, cocoon-like walls are designed to focus attention entirely on the plate.

Staying at Mandarin Oriental, Paris? Book your stay with me for preferred-partner perks.